GREAT GLEN WILDLIFE TOUR REPORT
BULGARIA – Overwintering Red-breasted Geese
18 – 24 March 2005
Guides: David Kent and Pavel Simeonov
Day 1; Fri. 18 February After linking up at the Holiday Inn (05:45) we travelled together to London Heathrow, Terminal 1, and checked in following a fairly quickly resolved issue concerning tickets. The weather at Heathrow was mild and clear following a misty start. There was time to enjoy coffee with unlimited flapjacks in the Serviceair executive lounge (interrupted by a fire alert evacuation) before boarding our scheduled 08:35 flight to Sofia with British Airways, which finally lifted off at 08:50. Touching down at Sofia 13:35 it was surprising to discover largely snow-free conditions, with temperature just above freezing. After receiving onwards flight tickets to Varna we enjoyed T/coffee in the second-floor restaurant, duly noting Magpies and Rooks as the first birds of the tour.
The scheduled 19:00 flight took off just ten minutes late, arriving in Varna at 19:55. Our guide Pavel Simeonov, president of Le Balkan-Bulgaria Foundation, linked up with us at the baggage reclaim and, by 20:10, we were heading north. Road casualty Jackal and Beech Marten were seen en route to Hotel Kaliakra, our accommodation in Kavarna close to the Black Sea (reached at 21:10). A tasty meal awaited us, accompanied by a welcoming shot of rakia (Bulgaria’s answer to Scotch whisky).
Day 2; Sat. 19 February Breakfast at 08:10 was followed by departure at 09:15, the morning still, sky clouded but bright, with temperature around 1ºC. Outside the hotel a female Sparrowhawk circled low overhead, while a pair of Long-legged Buzzards soared above a nearby ridge. Driving directly north to Shabla Tuzla the days quest for wildlife began by checking the extremely calm surface of the Black Sea. Six Black-throated Divers, a number of Black-necked Grebes, plus a scattering of Shags (subspecies desmaresti), and Yellow-legged Gulls constituted a respectable start. Four ‘fly-by’ Waxwings were seen by DK and also heard by PS. On nearby Shabla Tuzla lagoon a collection of wildlfowl included Mallard, Wigeon and a number of largely concealed geese most of which were White-fronts plus a few hard-to-find Red-breasted. On flighting to an adjacent field we were able to more clearly discern the Red-breasted Geese through scopes. The visit also produced several Marsh Harriers, one being mobbed by a Short-eared Owl. Moving on to a flooded area by Shabla Lake a gathering of ducks included Wigeon, Mallard, Pintail, Shoveler and two female Smew.
Further north towards Lake Durankulak a large flight of geese milling over the sea were confirmed by Pavel to be Red-breasted – estimated at 5000 – identified by their diagnostic flight pattern. They duly dropped down into fields above the lake, so we attempted an approach from the north. Although unable to view the birds because of land contour, several birds on exposed spits in the lake below presented the best views thus far. Relocating to the south, approaching from an elevated position with light source at its best, we finally reached a position no more than 200 metres from the birds. It was an opportune time to break into our packed lunches. As we ate a Spotted Eagle flew by at fairly close range, we watched nine Marsh Harriers quartering reed-beds, and several Red-crested Pochards were spotted on a reed-fringed fish pond. It was a wonderful experience to see the entire flock of geese occasionally take to the wing en masse, but finally exit the scene on the arrival of two motor cyclists.
Late afternoon we travelled down a narrow track overlooking extensive reed-beds backed by banks covered in rank grass with scattered bushes. Water Rails called from the cover and Hen Harriers arrived to roost, including a handsome male. A Mute Swan pair were present on a small area of open water, at the edge of which we watched a Muskrat twice swim by with vegetation in its mouth – likely nest-building material.
During the return drive to our accommodation in Kavarna (arriving 19:00) a Short-eared Owl was seen in a roadside field.
Day 3; Sun. 20 February 08:00 breakfast was followed by departure at 09:00, the starting temperature about -1ºC., wind free but overcast. The first House and Tree Sparrows were seen in the hotel environs. We first drove to Cape Kaliakra discovering the sea to be ultra calm. One or two Hen Harriers, Common Buzzards and Kestrels were seen along the approach. Seaward viewing conditions were excellent, with several Great Northern Divers and a gathering of over 1000 Great Crested Grebes in view (the latter somewhat far out). Close to shore there were a number of Cormorants, several Shags, a group of Coots and scattered Black-necked Grebes. Yellow-legged and Black-headed Gulls flew by the headland and Jackdaws (white-collared race) were active about the cliffs. A total of five Harbour Porpoises (Black Sea subspecies) were also spotted. Departing the area we paused for photographs, seeing a very close Long-legged Buzzard.
Taking a spur road to the north-east an impressive gorge was reached – a favourite haunt of roosting Eagle Owls. A female Goshawk soaring above the mouth of the gorge as we arrived was a worthwhile sighting, soon followed by a significant number of Hen Harriers and Common Buzzards, alas we were unable to find the owl though discovered ample evidence of its presence (pools of plucked Wood Pigeon feathers). Continuing up to steppe habitat above, more harriers hunted the area and a trio of very close Calandra Larks added to the tally.
Duly working our way north we reached Yailata arriving at a headland with commanding overview of the sea. The location was an archaeological site, the surface area containing many tomb chambers hewn directly into the rock. A flock of Linnets and a fleetingly glimpsed vole, plus buzzards playing on the updraughts further along, were the only wildlife of note. At 13:30 we had lunch at a nearby ‘snek bar’, seeing two Syrian Woodpeckers in local gardens.
A return visit was then made to Shabla Tuzla where about ten Red-breasted Geese grazed among Whitefronts in a roadside field. Further on at Durankulak we visited derelict fish ponds extensively colonised by Phragmites reeds, where Marsh and Hen Harriers were arriving to roost. In a 180º sweep a remarkable 35 Hen Harriers were counted. On open water there were several Wigeon and Pochard, also nine female Smew. The arrival of five poachers with shotguns in a 4WD vehicle underlined the problems confronting Pavel in his attempts to promote conservation of this important protected site.
As darkness fell a short visit to Pavel’s home in Shabla, where we met and enjoyed the kindly hospitality of his charming wife Tatyana and entertaining son Pavel jnr., preceded a session of spotlighting en route to out hotel. Several Brown Hares, excellent views of a Jackal, plus a likely Western Polecat, was a very satisfactory result – we arrived in Kavarna 20:15. A second spotlighting excursion after dinner produced just Brown Hares and six moggies.
Daytime temperature had risen to 3ºC., the light remaining soft with occasional sunshine. Late evening a rather arresting aureole encircled a full moon.
Day 4; Mon. 21 February 08:00 breakfast for a 09:15 departure, the morning mild though largely overcast. With baggage loaded we set off for our next base in the south, making an early stop to check roadside birds: Syrian Woodpecker and about seven ‘eastern’ Bullfinches with interesting ‘Trumpeter Finch-like’ calls. Regular flocks of Yellowhammers and Chaffinches were encountered, containing one or two Bramblings and Greenfinches. Entering Varna Goldfinches and Crested Larks were spotted. Common Buzzards and Kestrels were the only raptors seen, five Great Egrets in fields beyond the city being of greater interest.
Reaching the old-age alluvial forest of Kamchia we pulled off and took a walk into this notable habitat, where Song Thrush, Goldcrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Nuthatch, Marsh, Blue, Great and Long-tailed Tits, and Hawfinch were seen, and Pavel heard a Black Woodpecker. At a high level aspect of the route we took lunch (13:00) at a rustic roadside cafe located in oak woods, where good views of Middle and Great Spotted Woodpeckers were enjoyed, also Mistle Thrushes. We also passed a number of rather attractive ‘black-headed birds’ (ladies of the night pawning their wares by day!). Remnant patches of snow lay on the ground at this altitude.
Just above the village of Banja we pulled off at the site of a derelict collective farm where a rare Pine Bunting had been reported the day previous. The species typically keeps company with Yellowhammers so, following Pavel’s lead, we duly came upon a flock feeding on a bank and occasionally flying up into bushes. It wasn’t long before the bird was spotted by Pavel (he’s much taller than the rest of us!), but it was only after the flock flew to fruit trees behind a garden that we finally achieved good views – a fabulous male in full breeding plumage (see photos) which permitted remarkably close approach, such that we could enjoy full frame observation through the scopes.
Arriving at the coast we took a brief tour of the ancient town of Nessebar, stopping by the harbour to check through gulls, of which we separated individuals of Mediterranean Yellow-legged Gulls (Larus cachinnans michahellis) from the more local Caspian Gulls (Larus cachinans cachinnans). Roadside salinas (salt pans) were completely devoid of birdlife on the approach to Pomorie, where we reached Hotel Byalata at 18:00.
Daytime temperature had risen to 10ºC., mist had manifested over high ground with a few spots of rain here and there.
Day 5; Tue. 22 February A very mild but misty start (08:00 breakfast for a 09:00 departure), the nearby Black Sea not visible from our balconies. Responding to these conditions we opted to first visit a high point north of the town to search for Sombre Tits, finding the location clear and sunny as hoped. Wandering about an area of scattered bushes and oak woods by a radio mast the first interesting finds were botanical, in the form of an exquisite yellow crocus featuring rather slender petals, together with a virtually stemless form of Star-of-Bethlehem. It took awhile before a number of fleetingly glimpsed fly-by tits finally translated into good views of two Sombre Tit foraging close by in ground cover. A Woodlark and several more eastern ‘trumpeter’ Bullfinches were also seen, and DK spotted a Goshawk.
A coffee stop was then taken at Sunny Beach resort, where mist still persisted but it was mild enough to enjoy our refreshments at outdoor seating. Departing the coast (and the mist) we headed inland to Lake Poroi (reservoir) seeing a covey of Grey Partridges and a Raven en route. From an elevated overview of the lake a rising flight of eight Dalmatian Pelicans was the first item to catch our attention, followed by two extremely pale Long-legged Buzzards perched on rocks. A pair of Ruddy Shelducks, our main target bird, was spotted on a small island as we approached the lake, also a number of Little and Great Egrets, and Grey Herons. Crested Larks frequently appeared in the surrounding sparse grassland. Driving along the lake a dapper male Cirl Bunting presented prolonged close viewing. We parked for an appetising packed lunch (14:00) by an oakwood, an excellent spot providing respite from a rather cold wind. More crocuses were found, some yellow but the majority white – of the same species seen earlier. Overlooking a narrow ‘waist’ in the lake a wintering Red-throated Diver was spotted, which delighted Pavel who informed us that it was a scarce bird for Bulgaria. The broader aspect of the lake beyond the narrows contained a great many wildlfowl, including distant flocks of geese and an assortment of ducks: Gadwall, Pintail, Teal and Smew (our first drake) among others. Two Slender-billed Gulls flew by.
Later heading for Burgas we saw a Great Grey Shrike fly up from roadside cover and alight on an electricity cable, then stopped at a sharp bend in a small village where small bird activity had caught our attention. Ten minutes of scanning gardens, orchards and rooftops was rewarded with views of Little Owl, Syrian Woodpecker, Hawfinch, Siskin and Chiffchaff. Trees at the location contained lots of Spannish Sparrow nests.
Reaching Burgas we linked up with local conservationist Russi, by a roadsidelake containing large numbers of Shelduck, Teal, Shoveler and Pintail. Russi led us to nearby Lake Vaya, where we viewed the reed-fringed lake with its city backdrop, from the upper level of a part-constructed fabrication. Pavel’s trained eye was able to pick out a few distant White-headed Ducks which, alas, to the rest of us, were not adequately discernible. The greater show of birds was nonetheless quite outstanding, with a conservative estimate of 300 Pygmy Cormorants flying by on their way to roost. Numerous Great Crested and Black-necked Grebes, Dabchicks, Smew, Coots, Moorhens and distant Dalmatian Pelicans were some of the other birds seen. Cetti’s Warblers occasionally uttered burst of song from nearby reed cover. Shortly after Pam had asked when were we going to show her a Bittern, one flew up from the lakeside and passed directly overhead – as though to order.
Just south of the city we finally checked ponds on which a Ferruginous Duck showed among a large gathering of Shovelers, while Dalmatian Pelicans perched on a pontoon. Cormorants amassed to roost on electricity pylons. From a nearby quarry (Eagle Owl haunt) with overview of Lake Vaya and the Black Sea, the fading late afternoon light created a most atmospheric close to a very productive day. Back at the hotel 18:00.
Day 6; Wed. 23 February 08:00 breakfast for a 09:00 departure, the morning breezy, clear and mild. With baggage packed we set off north for Varna, stopping by Pomorie salinas on the way out. A tentative exploration along a dyke led to a succession of adventures for the passing would-be rescue vehicles that generously stopped to help tow us out, after our vehicle faltered and stranded in mud. First a medium-side truck, then a lorry, and finally a professional rescue contractor’s truck floundered in the developing wallow – the day ultimately saved by a tiny Lada Niva which extricated the queue without difficulty. The weather was very nice, we lost just a couple of hours and added Redshanks and White-Wagtails to the bird list.
Our next stop was at the Pine Bunting ‘hot-spot’ by Banja, where we had our picnic lunch (13:00). A short way on we took the spur road to Cape Ermine where birdlife was comparatively sparse but nonetheless worthwhile. From the clifftops we could see Red-breasted Mergansers on the sea, and a good example of a Yellow-legged Gull (L. c. michahellis) flew by. Scattered bushes on the plateau produced a confiding Woodlark, two Sombre Tits and large numbers of Corn Buntings, Yellowhammers and Goldfinches.
Continuing north we reached Gorica for a coffee-and-home-made-rakia stop at the summer retreat of Pavel’s genial father. During the break a Green Woodpecker was heard calling. A final and brief stop was made at the outflow of the Kamchia River, where rainfall dulled enthusiasm for exploration. We reached Hotel Orbita, our base for the night in Varna, at 18:00, later visiting an excellent restaurant for a most enjoyable last meal accompanied by folk music cabaret. – a fitting conclusion to the tour.
Day 7; Thu. 24 February 06:30 reveille for 07:00 breakfast before departure to the airport, weather in Varna extremely misty. After bidding our farewells to Pavel we boarded our flight for Sofia (scheduled for 09:30) which took off two hours late owing to the early mist. Onwards travel from Sofia was more or less on time, arriving at London Heathrow 16:10 thus concluding the tour.
Notes/Comments Winter tours within Europe by their nature tend to be modest affairs with regards to the amount of wildlife seen. This turned out to be the exception, with 105 species of birds and five mammals seen during just five full days in the field. But accruing numbers is not what our tours are about, quality of sightings being our main aim, in which respect I would like to believe there would be unanimous agreement that we achieved just that. Luck is always essential, and we certainly had it on our side with the weather and the numbers of geese still present. The event had been developed with Red-breasted Geese as a main theme, and what a memorable occasion it was to watch 5000 or more of these glamourous birds lift en masse during our lunch stop on that first day. For most of the other ‘hoped-for’ birds we had very good views: Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian Pelican, Ruddy Shelduck, Ferruginous Duck, Syrian Woodpecker, Calandra Lark and Sombre Tit etc. And, although we generally don’t focus on rarities, it has to be said that the Pine Bunting was well worth the effort. Mammals were few, but the Jackal (the live one!) was a notable coupe. Wildlife aside, I’m quite sure that locational content, visits to some very special environments, comfortable well-located hotels, good food and good company are collective ingredients that also weigh importantly into final appraisal of the adventure. Ultimately the overall experience could not have been so full and rewarding without the great expertise and tireless efforts of our guide and driver Pavel, whose unerring sharp-eyed vigilance ensured that we didn’t miss a thing. And, although getting the vehicle stuck in mud must have been a tremendously stressful experience for him at the time, I would like to reassure Pavel that it did not detract from enjoyment of the tour – and will simply remain a memory that constitutes a source of ongoing amusement.