Birds and Mammals:
Bird tally – 223, including three wagtail subspecies
Notable highlights:
Birds: Mediterranean Shearwater, Dalmatian and White Pelicans, Pygmy Cormorant, Black Stork, Ferruginous Duck, Great Snipe, Marsh Sandpiper, Kentish Plover, Collared and Black-winged Pratincoles, Caspian and Gull-billed Terns, Pallid Harrier, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures, Red-footed Falcon, Levant Sparrowhauk, Little Crake, Wryneck and 7 species of Woodpecker, Eagle Owl, Roller, Crag Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Pallid Swift, Semi-collared Flycatcher, Tawny and Red-throated Pipits, Black-headed and Citrine Wagtails, Calandra and Short-toed Larks, Wallcreeper, Crested, Penduline and Sombre Tits, Orphean and Barred Warblers, Pied, Finsch’s, Isabelline and Black-eared Wheatears, Blue Rock Thrush, Nutcracker, Firecrest, Ring Ouzel, Rock and Cirl Buntings…Mammals:Jackal, Balkan Chamois, Souslik, Black Sea Harbour Porpoise
Trip report 2007
GREAT GLEN WILDLIFE TOUR REPORT
BULGARIA – Black Sea Coast and Rhodope Mountains + an extra visit to Romania
19 – 28 April 2007;Guides: David Kent (GGW) and Pavel Simeonov (Branta-Tours)
Participants: Stephen Alcock, Alan Grindley and Margaret Matthews
Day 1; Thu. 19 April: After rendezvous and check in for our flight at London Heathrow, Terminal 2, we enjoyed unlimited complimentary T/coffee, biscuits or whatever else one fancied in the Serviceair executive lounge, before boarding our aircraft for the scheduled 09:30 flight to Vienna with Austrian Airlines. Although take off was slightly late we arrived on time; our onwards flight to Varna arrived ten minutes early (16:40). Passport control and baggage reclaim was expedited fairly quickly and we had soon linked up with our local guide Pavel Simeonov, Tour Leader of Branta-Tours Birdwatching Company, in the arrivals hall. After changing money in the city centre we were on our way north by 17:40, Wood Pigeons, Jays and Magpies being the first birds noted. The weather was somewhat chilly, the sky overcast over the land with patches of sunlight breaking through over the sea.
Heading along the Black Sea coast towards Albena a first stop produced several Alpine Swifts, a Hobby then a Levant Sparrowhawk. Towards an escarpment where Eagle Owls are known to nest a flight of about 150 White Pelicans appeared ahead, searching for lift from updraughts and thermals. Catching the early evening light they were a spectacular sight. Out to sea a number of Great crested Grebes were seen.
Skylarks, Crested and Calandra Larks lifted from roadsides as we continued on to Krapetz, where we reached our sea-front hotel at 20:15. Following an appetising meal in the company of Pavel’s wife Tatyana (owner and manager of Branta-Tours) and son Pavel jnr., we went outside to discover a clear sky featuring very bright moon in the vicinity of the planet Venus.
Day 2; Fri. 20 April. A chilly but very clear and sunny start to the day. Birdlife seen from and around the hotel included Black-winged Stilt, Little Gull, Caspian Tern, Spanish Sparrow and Linnet. 08:00 breakfast preceded departure at 09:10 for an unscheduled visit to Romania. A detailed account of the day’s bird sightings would fill pages – our outstanding end-of-day tally of 108 birds herewith reported in condensed form.
Hen Harrier (female), Red-footed Falcon and Syrian Woodpecker were among birds noted towards the border, a two-and-a-half hour journey bringing us to a wetland zone at the fringe of the Danube Delta. Early stops produced flocks of Glossy Ibises descending into reedbeds, while a few Purple Herons flew lazily by, and yellow/blue-headed wagtails of diverse races (feldegg, flava, bema, thumbergii, including the beautiful supercilliaris and dombrowskii hybrid forms) appeared at every turn – stimulating Pavel into a paroxysm of enthusiasm. Crested and Calandra Larks were numerous along tracks, plus a few Short-toed Larks.
By lunch time the wader count had included Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Ruff (the most numerous species); Dunlin, Curlew, Wood and Marsh Sandpipers, Redshank, Spotted Redshank and Greenshank. While enjoying our alfresco lunch flocks of Collared Pratincoles hawked insects all around, close scrutiny by Pavel disclosing two rare Black-winged Pratincoles among them. A one and only Black-tailed Godwit of the tour was also seen. Wildfowl thus far included Greylag Goose, Shelduck, Mallard, Shoveler and Gadwall; Spotted Crake and Moorhen were heard. Reed and Great Reed Warblers had been seen pre-lunch, while Cetti’s and Savi’s Warblers were spotted by Margaret & DK during a lunchtime stroll – also good views of Beaded Tit.
A few kms. north we next reached a favoured foraging area of Gull-billed Terns. Approaching a lightly reed-fringed lake we found our birds roosting by the waters edge in the company of a few Caspian and Little Terns plus the three marsh terns (Black, White-winged Black and Whiskered). Great and Little Egrets, Spoonbill, Avocet and Golden Plover were incidental birds noted. The approach track to the lake had produced several close range Hoopoes and, during the exit drive, a very close Red-throated Pipit was an extremely rewarding find, a Wryneck a short way on adding icing to the cake.
Finally heading south again a call was made at fishponds at a protected area where White-tailed Plovers had nested here two years previous, our visit producing many species of birds already seen plus two Squacco Herons, numerous Garganey, four Red-crested Pochards, four Ferruginous Ducks and a number of Coots.
Among incidental wildlife seen during the course of the day at least ten European Sousliks were a positive highlight, with Sand Lizard, and Swallowtail and Peacock butterflies in support. Sand Crocus was a notable wild flower.
Setting off back at 18:10 we reached Shabla at 20:30, where we were invited to Pavel’s home for a splendid meal of Turbot – accompanied by entertaining banter.
The day had gradually warmed up, though a wind persisted throughout.
Bulgaria:
Black Sea Coast and Rhodope Mountains
Day 3; Sat. 21 April. A clear morning, warm and sunny with just a breeze. Pre-breakfasters saw a Nightingale a short way from the hotel. Breakfast at 08:30 was followed by departure at 09:20. Lake Durankulak to the north was our destination, approached from the coast. Skirting the lake and peripheral reedbeds Purple Herons made an early appearance, as did two striking Citrine Wagtails. On crossing arable fields, some recently ploughed while others still contained last season’s stubble, larks dominated the scene and the appearance of raptors kept us attentive. Marsh Harriers and the occasional Red-footed Falcon showed as expected, while a female Pallid Harrier (ID’d by well-defined pale neck collar) was a somewhat more exclusive sighting. The next raptor to appear, initially called (by DK) to be a Lesser Spotted Eagle, was, on closer approach, agreed by both leaders to be too broad-winged for a LSE. This, however, is where agreement terminated, with DK firm of the opinion that it was the very similar but larger Greater Spotted Eagle, while Pavel favoured the idea that it was a rare Steppe Eagle (see photograph). To Pavel’s great delight we also came on a Great Snipe squatting in the stubble. It allowed us to approach remarkably close without taking off, enabling us to discuss its diagnostic features and providing Pavel with a rare photographic opportunity. The fields also yielded several eye-catching wild flowers, including both red and yellow-flowered species of adonis.
Late morning we visited Branta Conservation centre with its commanding overview of Lake Durankulak, from which a first Long-legged Buzzard was seen. This was followed by a delicious fish soup lunch at a nearby fish restaurant on the banks of the lake – two Kingfishers having been seen from the approach track.
The northern aspect of the lake was next visited in search of a Paddyfield Warbler, in the absence of which we saw Reed and Marsh Warblers and heard a Moustached Warbler singing. Large passing flights of Pygmy Cormorants and Glossy Ibises were undoubtedly the star events of the location.
Steppe habitats were next on the agenda, starting with a visit to Yailata just south of Shabla. Here we walked down to the ruins of a Byzantine fortification just above the sea, following a descending path lined by stately Yellow Asphodels. Wild flowers were of principal interest there being a great many species producing a most colourful show. Various wild peas, vetches and other legumes dominated, with the first Broad-leaved Peonies starting to open. Back up on the steppe we found an attractive dwarf iris manifesting in blue, purple and yellow forms.
Onwards across the steppe to Kaliakra we paused to look at a Redstart and Collared Flycatcher in a patch of scrubby cover, then a Pied Wheatear perched atop a thorn bush – presenting a marvellous view being highlighted by the late afternoon sun. Good views of a perched Long-legged Buzzard were also enjoyed; male and female Montagu’s Harriers were then spotted while quartering the ground for small rodents (i.e. the harriers were quartering the ground for small rodents – not the group!). Towards the cape a last wild flower stop yielded fabulous specimens of the stunning Narrow-leaved Peony.
It was quite cold at Cape Kaliakra, where we walked out to the point via a site of major archaeological ruins – Harbour Porpoise (Black Sea subspecies Phocoena p. relicta), Black-throated Diver, Black-necked Grebe and Mediterranean Gull seen from the cliff tops. Around the headland there were many Cormorants and Shags (Black Sea subspecies Phalacrocorax aristotelis desmarestii), lots of Alpine Swifts careered overhead, Chiffchaffs flitted through hillside cover and a second Pied Wheatear was seen on a wall of the ruins.
Leaving the cape at the height of a beautiful sunset we made the short journey to a gorge where crepuscular birdlife was targeted. In the failing light ponds surrounded by dense cover were studied, soon producing clear but limited views of a Little Crake weaving in and out of reeds by the far water margin. Stephen then brought our attention to a large bird perched in silhouette on the horizon. It was an Eagle Owl – one of the most sought after European birds. There was sufficient light that, through the scopes, its plumage detail remained clearly discernible. The setting could not have been bettered for viewing this magnificent individual, perched in statuesque manner as it surveyed the gorge below. The great bird eventually took to the wing and presented us with an excellent flight profile, finally departing the scene to hunt the steppe above.
We were back at the hotel at 21:00 after a rather long and tiring day.
Day 4; Sun. 22 April. Another mild and clear morning, with a strong onshore wind. Flights of Mediterranean Gulls, four Squacco Herons and a flock of Levantine Shearwaters were seen from the hotel front first thing. 08:00 breakfast preceded loading of baggage into the 4WD vehicle and farewell to Hotel Krapetz at 09:30.
Our first stop was along a spur track towards coastal cliffs to look for Finsch’s Wheatear, taking a very nice walk through hilly terrain where Woodlarks and Whitethroats sang all around, and wild flowers inevitably seized our attention. Small flotillas of Great Crested and Black-necked Grebes were seen on the sea, while Yellow-legged and Caspian Gulls (michahellis) drifted close by along the cliff tops. With the group spread out across the area it was Stephen and DK who happened to be in the right place when a male Finsch’s Wheatear flew close by but, unfortunately, failed to reappear for the rest of the group.
The busy conurbation of Varna (coffee stop at filling station) with its austere soviet-built apartment blocks then had to be negotiated on our way south to the next stop at Kamchia Reserve, a large tract of alluvial forest along the banks of the Kamchia River. A short walk from the main trunk road served up our first Short-toed Treecreeper, a more prolonged exploration of the southern aspect – entering along a ride flanked by a rich understorey beneath mature broad-leaved trees – produced Blackcaps, Hawfinches and a Black Woodpecker (lured in with a recording). This wonderful habitat was the haunt of Semi-collared Flycatcher, which was not seen, but really good viewing of a roadside Lesser Spotted Woodpecker more than compensated. A Golden Oriole was heard, while Wood White, Speckled Wood and Orange Tip butterflies were of incidental interest.
Continuing south we passed through wooded hills where a Short-toed Eagle was a notable sighting. Lunch was taken at a roadside restaurant, where a Nuthatch and Greater Spotted Woodpecker appeared close by our table. During a productive walk through surrounding open oak woods we then added Spotted Flycatcher and, more significant, a Semi-collared Flycatcher to the tally. The latter, a young male, sang from various points above a nest box, which it occasionally visited. Chattering calls up in the forest canopy then alerted us to a Middle Spotted Woodpecker, which Pavel lured in for closer viewing courtesy of a recording. Deeper into the wood a Grey-headed Woodpecker called, similarly lured in for close observation.
Our route duly emerged at a high overview of Sunny Beach coastal resort and the ancient town of Nessebar. Here we pulled in to make a short exploration of Sombre Tit habitat. A cold wind had a subduing effect of birdlife; just DK briefly spotted our target bird. Hawfinches and a Turtle Dove were seen.
After a coffee stop at the location we took a back-roads rural route to Pomorie, seeing a pair of Long-legged Buzzards and briefly glimpsing two Ortolan Buntings. Hotel Byalata Kashta, our base for the next three nights, was reached at 19:30.
Day 5; Mon. 23 April. Harbour Porpoise and Gull-billed Tern were spotted from the hotel front before breakfast at 08:00.
At 09:00 we headed for the salinas (salt pans) by Pomorie where large numbers of Ruffs were the predominant waders. Black-winged Stilts and Avocets were well represented, with a scattering of Redshanks, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers, plus two Spotted Redshanks (one in breeding plumage), Wood Sandpipers and Kentish Plovers, also a single Ringed Plover. Little Egret, Squacco Heron, Shelduck, Garganey and Gadwall were also present.
Nearby Lake Atanasovo was next on the agenda, reached along a dirt track where we parked in the shade of tall willows. The calls of Penduline Tits were immediately heard, two pairs duly appearing in low shrubby thickets – excellent viewing followed. A first Willow Warbler was heard and then seen, and DK and Stephen accidentally flushed a Water Rail. Taking a walk along a track bordered by lofty reeds there was more of the regular fare to be seen, but the targeted Stone Curlews on open dry ground beyond the reeds were not in evidence.
Onwards through the bustling city of Burgas we passed Lake Vaya with its collapsed pylons, resulting from corrosion caused by Cormorant droppings. At reed-fringed lagoons attached to Lake Mandra a few kms. south, two Dalmatian Pelicans on a pontoon were the main feature. Alepou marsh wetland was our next stop, where Marsh Harriers quartered reedbeds and Pygmy Cormorants again showed. From dunes opposite two Black-throated Divers (one in breeding plumage) were seen on the sea, also flotillas of Levantine Shearwater.
Our route progressed along the Ropotamo River and into the oak-clad Strandja Mountains, crossing a river on which a Red-necked Grebe was spotted. We pulled off the road for lunch overlooking a valley freshly green from emergent oak foliage, seeing a Woodchat Shrike atop a nearby bush while Hawfinches ‘ticked’ from trees to our rear. Common Blue and Lesser Fiery Copper were two butterflies observed.
Our journey eventually led to the Turkish border zone where, after negotiating a checkpoint, we looked (without success) for White-backed Woodpeckers in Oriental Beech-dominant forest. Flora of the understorey included Rhododendron, Laurel, Yellow Comfrey and an extremely tall bugle. An unexpected item was a Semi-collared Flycatcher, a mature adult male much more clearly marked than yesterday’s specimen. We finally reached Kosti, a typical old and characterful rural village, where we turned around and headed back for Pomorie.
A riverside Thrush Nightingale was briefly seen en route to the Lake Mandra lagoons, by which we made a final stop to check out a heron colony in tall reedbeds. All breeding species apart from Purple Heron were seen, Night Heron being new for the tour checklist. As it was by now approaching sunset, Cormorants had arrived to amass by their nests on surrounding pylons. Back at the hotel for 19:40, the day having remained bright and warm throughout.
Day 6; Tue. 24 April. Breakfast at 07:45 preceded departure and farewell to Hotel Byalata Kashta at 08:50, the morning warm, sunny and windless. First checking the locations of local ponds that normally attract Slender-billed Gulls, we discovered unfettered urban development to have taken over the sites. Passing by Lake Vaya we stopped to continue our search for Slender-billed Gulls, a distant ‘take-the-guide’s-word-for-it’ individual occurring among Black-headed Gulls. Another Dalmatian Pelican was also seen. Continuing through Burgas a number of Double-breasted Eyecatchers proved difficult to ignore! At the far end of Lake Mandra a large number of migrant White Storks foraged in a field.
Heading up into the mountains of Strandja we again reached zones of oak-dominant forest where a Black Kite appeared above the road. On reaching semi-open country with scattered bushes Ortolan Buntings were seen and DK spotted a Jackal disappearing at the top of a field. Alan then spotted another Jackal cross the road ahead, which we were unable to relocate but enjoyed excellent views of a Hobby circling above its nest. Towards midday we progressed from Strandja into the Sakar mountain area and made a roadside stop to check an interesting-looking area of orchards and scrubby thickets, where Hawfinches were again seen and a Golden Oriole sang (seen by DK). Further on a small roadside passerine, initially called by DK to be a possible Sardinian Warbler, turned out to be a Sombre Tit. We stopped to view the bird, Stephen then spotting a Jackal running up a flanking slope. The animal looked very fit and still sported its thick winter pelage. It paused in silhouette on the ridge, presenting us with an absolutely fantastic view. Serendipity persisted when, on the next high point along, two soaring raptors were quickly confirmed to be Honey Buzzards (flat-winged flight). On stopping a few kms. further along the route a Black Stork soared over the location, a soaring Goshawk then being spotted.
At 14:15 we stopped for lunch in an area where Imperial Eagles often hunt. It was by this time quite hot and butterflies were active: Red Admiral, Map Butterfly, Yellow-banded Skipper, Common Blue, Small Heath, Fenton’s Wood White and Lesser Fiery Copper. Although well placed to observe eagle activity nothing was seen, probably owing to the time of day.
Towards 16:00 we were on our way to the Eastern Rhodopes, travelling through mountainous areas where towering vertical rock faces, lofty crags and deep gorges featured. Pavel stopped frequently to listen for Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler, eventually hearing one sing from roadside cover during the descent towards Madjarovo. Although we could hear its distinctive trill the bird remained unseen except by Pavel. From the same spot we saw one or two Griffon Vultures circling above a crag, soon joined by a medium-sized eagle that provoked another raptor ID debate between the two leaders – DK identifying it as a Short-toed Eagle while Pavel insisted it was a buzzard-sized Booted Eagle. Pavel’s identification was concluded to be correct. Just before the town we travelled along a spur road to look for Rock Thrush and Blue Rock Thrush, seeing at least six of the latter during a walk. The walk also produced a very nice Rock Bunting and Black-eared Wheatear, while Red-rumped Swallows and Crag Martins wheeled about overhead. In addition to several Griffon Vultures above the flanking ridge two very attractive Egyptian Vultures appeared, also a Short-toed Eagle. Shortly after this excellent finale we arrived at Madjarovo Vulture Centre (19:00), our exceedingly comfortable and well located accommodation for the night.
Following an excellent meal on the patio, while serenaded by Nightingales, we retreated to the dining room to address the checklist – only to be called back out to hear a Scops Owl calling.
Day 7; Wed. 25 April. Local pre-breakfast exploration produced sightings of Nightingale, Cirl Bunting, Woodlark and Egyptian Vulture, while a Jackal was heard howling. Our 07:00 breakfast was late arriving but we nevertheless managed to be on our way to the Western Rhodopes by 07:40. The morning was initially cold but very clear and still, gradually heating up as the day progressed.
A first stop was made by a dam close to a Bonelli’s Eagle nesting territory, where a Sombre Tit was the only item of bird interest. Just before 10:00 we reached the location of a vulture feeding station (vulture restaurant) and walked up to an overview of the site, where about 50 Griffon plus a couple of Egyptian Vultures were gathered around a banquet of abattoir offal. Birds would periodically depart the scene while others descended from the sky, ‘undercarriage’ lowered for the final descent. This, we were informed by the local expert, was a change of shift, whereby incubating females were relieved by their partners so that they could in turn partake in the feast. Two rather grey-coloured Foxes frequently arrived to feed, and we kept an eye on open ground beyond in hopes of sighting one of the Wolves that occasionally turn up – alas not on this occasion. A Black Kite also attended the site.
Continuing through the captivating scenery of the Eastern Rhodopes we made several stops in search of Rock Nuthatches, seeing more Blue Rock Thrushes, Black-eared Wheatears, and a very handsome Roller spotted by Alan. Lunch was taken in parkland at the fringe of a large town (Krumovgrad) where, at an open-air cafe, we ate copious quantities of whitebait and chips while surrounded by a feeding flock of Double-breasted Eyecatchers with their offspring.
Following lunch our quest for Rock Nuthatch led along a spur road renowned for Mediterranean warblers. Again we drew a blank for nuthatches, but had compensating views of Barred and Eastern Orphean Warblers.
The Eastern Rhodopes gradually gave way to the Western Rhodopes, where forests of pine and spruce increasingly appeared in the landscape. The temperature was decidedly cooler and, at higher levels beyond the city of Smoljan, remnant snow patches occurred by the roadside. Rivers were faster flowing, Stephen spotting a first Dipper from the vehicle – Rock Bunting and Grey Wagtail also seen. Just before reaching Devin – our next accommodation base – at 18:00, we met up with local ranger Vlado, transferring into his Lada Niva for the arduous ascent up deeply pitted tracks to a subalpine area (1150 metres altitude) where our scheduled Brown Bear watch would take place. Bullfinch and Yellowhammer were seen from the vehicle. During a walk of several hundred metres to an observation hide (constructed in pine trees) we were shown Wolf scats (droppings). Margaret and DK also saw Common Crossbills. We remained in the hide from 19:10 until 21:00, glimpsing a Fox and hearing the sounds of crepuscular wildlife activity: Roe Deer barking, Wild Boar grunting, Tawny Owl hooting and Woodcock roding. Our bear failed to show and, although the site had been regularly baited since January, an uncharacteristically mild winter had seemingly left the animals with ample natural forage such that their visits had become irregular. Although a great disappointment, this having been billed as a top event of the tour experience, it was an exceedingly worthwhile location to visit – especially on this perfectly clear moonlit and windless evening. Our exceedingly comfortable guesthouse accommodation in Devin was reached at 22:00, where we enjoyed the most appetising meals of the tour courtesy of Vlado’s wife Vesca.
Day 8; Thu. 26 April. 09:00 breakfast for a 09:50 departure, Black Redstart, Willow Tit and Serin seen in trees just outside the guest house. Although Devin is 715 metres in altitude, the morning was windless and warm in addition to being clear and sunny. Balkan Chamois (Rupricaria r. balcanica) was the wildlife target for the morning, searched for during stops along an ascending route immediately behind the town. Climbing through zones of Black and then Scots Pine we eventually left the main route along a dirt track, where we stopped to wander in search of Rock Partridge. Although not found we saw a Cuckoo (brown-phase female), Yellowhammer, Raven and Woodlark. A highlight was a Crested Tit, lured in for unbeatable ultra-close viewing with a recording. Owing to a deteriorating track we elected to walk rather than drive to an elevated radio mast. Passing through pines and by subalpine fields we enjoyed excellent views of Common Crossbill, Treecreeper, Nuthatch and Greater Spotted Woodpecker and, finally emerging at an overview of the greater landscape, a Lesser Whitethroat was heard singing and briefly seen. Incidental wildlife items during the walk included comparatively fresh tracks of a very large Wolf, also Badger scats.
On reaching the mast we achieved a precipitous view over crags, scree slopes and lightly tree-clad hillsides. Vlado soon signalled that he had seen a Chamois below the crags, which vanished before we reached the position. After awhile he spotted a second animal, this one immediately below at the base of a scree slope. Although aware of our presence it was not alarmed and even settled to browse foliage, presenting excellent and well-earned viewing.
Back at the vehicle we had lunch (14:00), then headed back down to Devin, pausing along the descent for a last check of the mountainside. Sharp-eyed Pavel soon spotted a Chamois laid up in the shade of an overhanging rock, thereby enabling Margaret – who had missed the previous animal – to achieve good views through the scope.
Trigrad Gorge was next on the agenda, an immensely beautiful and dramatic location where Wallcreeper was our target. For almost two hours we scrutinised the sheer rock faces through binoculars, but our bird was neither heard nor seen. The location was nevertheless worthwhile for the array of interesting flowing plants, several of which proved difficult to identify, as the range of our field guide didn’t cover Bulgaria. Yellow Whitlow-grass, Blue Corydalis, a dark-red Rock-jasmine and the endemic Haberlea rhodopensis were notable.
On the way back we took a side road leading along a river where a Dipper was seen, eventually leading up to a meadow where Cowslips and Dog’s-tooth Violets flowered. Hazel Hen was the hoped for target bird, but Pavel’s recording failed to muster a response. Other plants noted included Mezereon, Spring Pea, Seven-leaved Bittercress, Asarabacca and Heart-leaved Leopardsbane. Back at the guest house 19:45.
Day 9; Fri. 27 April. After an 08:00 breakfast we departed the friendly hospitality of Vlado and Vesca at 09:00, the morning again sunny and windless though initially chilly in the shade. We drove directly to Trigrad Gorge for another attempt at Wallcreeper which, according to personal experience – also the honey-selling lady at the parking area – tend to be most active during mornings. DK scouted the lower gorge as Pavel surveyed the upper aspect, while Alpine Swifts chattered overhead, Black Redstarts sang from the rock faces and Bullfinches were seen in trees by the river. While DK heard and briefly saw a Wallcreeper, Pavel had already pinpointed an inhabited nest. Although at the far side of the gorge, we managed to adjust our position such that, through the scopes, the adult pair could be seen very well as they came and went with food for their young, occasionally pausing at the nest-site entrance. We were finally induced to take our leave (11:00).
Continuing on our way we again passed through high-level forests where remnant snow still appeared, a photographic stop being inspired on coming upon a meadow of Blue Crocuses which, in places, were so dense that their colour manifested as a haze.
En route to Plovdiv we made stops in Rock Thrush country, taking lunch at a roadside restaurant in suitable habit where Golden Eagles were also reported to occur. Several Buzzards and a Hobby were the main birds spotted. At Plovdiv we joined the motorway for the final leg of the journey to Sofia, where traffic was building significantly. Hotel Hyundai (reached at 18:30), our final accommodation, was, however, high above the chaos of the city, located at the upper forest zone of Vitosha mountain. Whereas the temperature at city level was quite hot, on the mountain it was somewhat chilly.
Day 10; Sat. 28 April The regular 08:00 breakfast preceded an 08:45 trip up to the ski station, Stephen having seen a Marsh Tit by the hotel and, together with Alan, spotted a pair of close-range Common Crossbills. The morning was chilly – just a couple of degrees above freezing – the sky patchily clouded permitting occasional bursts of warming sunlight to break through. On the way up we stopped to attempt luring in a Nutcracker using a recording (i.e. we used the recording – not the Nutcracker). Within moments a Nutcracker alighted in a nearby spruce and proceeded to utter its harsh grating call. From the end of the road we then walked along a path following the contour, seeing several more Nutcrackers, including two individuals foraging on the ground nearby. Passing through groves of Norway Spruce the calls of Goldcrests and Firecrests were heard, both showing very well once lured out by a recording. Not too far ahead we entered a forest opening where the final new bird of the tour, a male Ring Ouzel, was induced to perch close by atop a spruce. Its pale-fringed body feathers were typical of the Central European race alpestris. With time in hand we headed back to the hotel for a final coffee and to collect baggage, then headed into Sofia to look for Red Squirrels in a well-wooded park. We didn’t have to wander far before one was spotted stripping shredded bark from a dead tree, clearly for use as bedding material in its drey. It was an excellent prolonged view, the animal being a dark chocolate brown, typical of Red Squirrels in this eastern region of Europe.
On reaching the airport (13:20), initially at the wrong terminal, a few spots of rain began to fall. After checking in for our flight there was time to review the checklist one last time before saying farewell to Pavel and heading for departures. Our scheduled 15:15 flight to Vienna took off on time, the connecting flight to London Heathrow touching down punctually at 18:40 thus concluding the tour.
Notes/Comments: Eventful from start to finish would be a fair appraisal of our first early spring venture to Bulgaria. There were a great many highlights, such as the opening experience of wetland birdlife – featuring an array of birds too numerous to mention. Suffice to say that we shall not forget the flights of Pygmy Cormorants and Glossy Ibises or the Pratincoles gracefully parading about the sky overhead. And then there was the final morning at Vitosha where excellent views of Nutcracker, Firecrest and Ring Ouzel was a memorable finale. Each day presented something new and different, and each of us will be aware of personal highlights. Great Snipe, Semi-collared Flycatcher, Red-throated Pipit and Citrine Wagtail were notable rarities, but I should doubt if any of us rated those nearly so highly as the infinitely less uncommon Eagle Owl in silhouette against the evening sky. Although not alluded to in the report on a day to day basis, one heard Nightingales at virtually every stop – and at least a hundred Corn Buntings to each Nightingale.
It was a huge disappointment (and source of embarrassment for DK) that the Brown Bear watch turned out to be such a none event. An unseasonably mild winter was the apparent reason for their disinterest in the bait site. Bears aside, we actually didn’t do at all badly for mammals. The Jackal on Day 6 was an exceptional sighting, the Chamois that we stalked and viewed with Vlado was greatly rewarding, and even the close sightings of European Sousliks were immensely entertaining. Even mammals that weren’t seen inspired significant interest, their presence betrayed by fresh track and scats – as with the large male Wolf on Day 8.
Still being early season there was not a huge number of wild flowers or butterflies, but among those discovered there were several notable species – including the stunning Narrow-leaved Peony.
Unfortunately there were species beyond DK’s ability to identify on referring to existing literature, and the checklist ultimately omits many species not satisfactorily identified. The book that provides all the answers has, however, already been ordered!
The final bird tally was an outstanding 223 (of which three were wagtail subspecies).
Eleven mammals were recorded, including those heard but not seen.
Wildlife aside, I am quite sure that locational content, visits to some very special environments, good food and good company all contributed towards an overall memorable event. And what about the weather? … rain free throughout! Ultimately the experience could not have been so full and rewarding without the great expertise and tireless efforts of our guide Pavel Simeonov, whose unerring sharp-eyed vigilance – not to mention his ‘take-no-prisoners-I’m-coming-through’ brand of driving – ensured that time was not wasted and we didn’t miss a thing.
Feedback of any kind is always appreciated.
Tour Wildlife Checklist on demand
DAVID KENT
GREAT GLEN WILDLIFE
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